Newsletter Archive

Find all our past newsletters with crack climbing knowledge, insights and stories, all in one place

Hey Cracksters, I get told a lot by people that they really struggle with thin hand cracks. For sure, they are difficult, but I often see the same mistakes occurring when people try these jams. Most people focus 100% of their effort on what to do with their hand once it’s in the crack. Whil...

by Pete Whittaker — Apr 21, 2026

The Grade Calculator: How to Use Grades to Route Read

Hey Cracksters, I’ve just got back from a trip to Bohuslän in Sweden last week. If you’ve never been, the granite there is world-class! While climbing a few routes, I was reminded of a specific skill that is so important for onsighting: being able to do ‘on-route grade calculations.’ Most peop...

by Pete Whittaker — Apr 21, 2026

5 Reasons you'll Climb Harder with a Good Partner

Hey Cracksters, Although climbing can be a very social sport, the actual climbing itself is usually pretty individualized. It’s just you against the rock, the project, or the gym problem. However, I was recently reminded that having a solid partner and working as a real team is incredibly i...

by Pete Whittaker — Apr 21, 2026

Stop the Scars, Build Better Tape Gloves

Hey Cracksters, Having the knowledge and ability to tape properly is incredibly important to ensure you keep your skin protected. Having ripped many holes in the back of my hands in my teens and early 20s, I can say 15–20 years later that there is not much reward in it. You end up with thinner sk...

by Pete Whittaker — Apr 21, 2026

The Secret to Crack Climbing Mindset

Hey Cracksters, Ever wondered why a climber who can crush f8a suddenly feels like a total beginner the moment they stick their hand in a crack? It’s a phenomenon we see all the time, and it usually leads to a lot of frustration (and some sore skin). Today, I want to talk about the "Mindset Gap" a...

by Pete Whittaker — Apr 21, 2026

Why Your Ring Locks Feel "Nasty" (and How to Fix It)

Hey Cracksters, We get asked about ring locks more than almost any other technique. Why? Because they are notoriously tricky and pretty awful if you get them wrong. Today, I’m going to share the #1 mistake I see people making that will make your ring lock life a lot easier. The Secret to ...

by Pete Whittaker — Apr 21, 2026

Turning a Desperate Move into a Victory Lap

At the first-ever Pro Climbing League event, Max Milne took the win with a masterclass in "thinking outside the box." While the boulder was set as a low-percentage double dyno, Max found a secret weapon: a jamming sequence. It proves that when you have the tools, the options can often be star...

by Pete Whittaker — Apr 21, 2026

Don’t waste your winter gains

Hey Cracksters, Ok so maybe I’m a little early with this one, but we had one nice day of weather and it reminded me that climbing outdoors does still exist! So let's go through 5 key points which will help the transition from indoor winter training to outdoor spring goals really easy (by the way ...

by Pete Whittaker — Feb 22, 2026

Want to learn jams quicker? Do this

Hey Cracksters, As we know you're going to be getting out there and crack climbing with the new gloves, I want to focus our attention today on the three big jamming types—hands, thin hands, and fists. I see people get confused all the time about what they should work on or how they should priorit...

by Pete Whittaker — Feb 22, 2026

Is Taping a Waste of Time?

Hey Cracksters, This week I’m going to answer a question I get asked a lot… "Pete, should I be using tape or gloves? Which one is actually better?" It’s a classic debate. Here is my honest opinion The Case for Crack Gloves Speed: You can take them on and off in seconds. No more 15-mi...

by Pete Whittaker — Feb 22, 2026

What to do when your hand doesn't fit

Hey Cracksters, For today's letter, I’ll answer a question (and a comment) we hear time and time again: “I can’t climb this crack because my hand doesn’t fit. What should I do?” This is something I hear very often. However, there is great news: Put simply, the only time this comment actuall...

Feb 22, 2026

How to Train For Crack Climbing, With No Cracks

Hey Cracksters, I hope you’re all training hard over the winter getting ready for those 2026 goals. I get asked a lot: "Pete, how am I supposed to train for cracks when my local gym doesn’t have any cracks?" It’s a fair point! While nothing beats actual jamming, you’d be surprised how much ...

Feb 22, 2026

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