2 climbing hacks used to complete my project

Hey Cracksters

I've got 2 sneaky little hacks for you today which helped me complete my latest project at The Profile Wall… I haven’t talked about this in any social media or video, so you guys are first to hear what made the difference.

In this email, I’ll show you:

• The hacks and what made the difference
• How to apply these to your own climbing

I really think you should try it, or at least give it some thought for your next project. It’s definitely something I will be doing in the future.

Let's dive in,

So, I’ve been working on this hard trad/crack climbing project in Jøssingfjord this year, and a few weeks ago I managed to complete it. It’s most likely the hardest trad/crack climb I’ve done, or at least to me that’s what it felt like.

The climb itself follows an obvious crack feature, but does have face holds in-between. So, lets talk footwear. Usually for climbing cracks the default is to go for flat, low-profiled shoes, right?

That way you get plenty of surface area of the foot inside the crack.

Obviously, I started working the route in my usual crack shoes (Unparallel Rise), but found myself struggling with some of the foot jams.

Occasionally the route breaks away from the crack then you have to re-enter the crack from the side, by pulling in with a toe jam. What I was actually finding was that when coming from the side a flat shoe was really hard to seat in the crack effectively.

I decided to bend the rules and just ‘try out’ my downturned high profile bouldering shoes. I was shocked!! Immediately I was able to place the foot into the crack more effectively as it felt like I was hooking around the edge of the crack with the downturn of the toe.

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