I learnt THIS from soloing a big wall

Hello Cracksters

A few weeks ago I made a solo ascent (all free) of Blåmann, a wall in the North of Norway. Today I want to give you a few things I learnt (or was reminded of) from completing the project.

1. Crack climbing is your friend in the mountains.
This is something I always tell people… when you are climbing in the mountains, jamming techniques are used so much.

Many lines follow crack features, and if they don’t, then where you will be placing gear will have cracks (so you might be able to jam).

In tough situations (like rope soloing Blåmann), I can never be thankful enough that I can jam properly in all sizes.

I really feel like it helps my fear (i’m not scared about ‘the crack pitch’ or ‘the wide chimney at the top’).

I become more relaxed (as I’m not concerned about what’s coming) which in turn makes me climb better

It acts as a nice safety net (when I have or see a good jam I feel at home).

So I really want to remind you, crack climbing is our friend (and if you are still learning, then it’s a friend you are getting to know). If you find it hard, try not to think about it as an enemy you are trying to overcome. When you learn it’s there to help you

2. Constant movement is quick movement.
This is slightly aside from crack climbing, but if you want to be efficient in the mountains…always be doing something.

To move quickly, you don’t have to climb quickly, you just have to be always moving and doing something (and sometimes doing 2 things at once)

That could be stacking a rope, and eating your sandwich. Checking the topo for the next pitch and belaying your second (of course make sure they are on guide mode). Or putting your shoes on and having the conversation you wanted to have with your partner.

When you stop you lose so much time. Continuously do the little things and save a minute here and a minute there; it adds up to hours across the day.

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