Wide Boyz

Log In
← Back to all posts

The Secret to Effortless Crack Climbing (It's not strength)

by Pete Whittaker
Dec 30, 2025
Connect

Hello Cracksters

The Stick-Slip Point: Climbing Smarter, Not Harder

I was filming some YouTube videos with Emil Abrahamsson the other day, and we stumbled upon something really interesting. We were experimenting with weighted Paddle Jams*, and even though Emil is incredibly strong, he was powering out quickly once he got on the wall.

This made me realize he wasn't finding his "stick-slip point" – he was over-gripping.

So, what exactly is the stick-slip point?

It's the point where you apply the minimum amount of force necessary to keep your jam secure. It’s the sweet spot between slipping and sticking.

Why is finding the stick-slip point so important?

  • Efficiency: By understanding how to find it quickly, you avoid wasting precious energy. You operate just above the failing threshold, maximizing your hold without overexerting yourself.
  • Security: This principle leads to more secure and reliable jams, significantly reducing the risk of slipping or falling.
  • Progression: Mastering the stick-slip point is essential for progressing to more challenging crack climbs and advanced techniques.
 

 

Want to learn more about crack climbing technique? join Global Crack School

 Join here

 
 

Responses

Join the conversation
t("newsletters.loading")
Loading...
Don’t waste your winter gains
Hey Cracksters, Ok so maybe I’m a little early with this one, but we had one nice day of weather and it reminded me that climbing outdoors does still exist! So let's go through 5 key points which will help the transition from indoor winter training to outdoor spring goals really easy (by the way I understand some of you will be on the other side of the world, so will already be out and about in...
Want to learn jams quicker? Do this
Hey Cracksters, As we know you're going to be getting out there and crack climbing with the new gloves, I want to focus our attention today on the three big jamming types—hands, thin hands, and fists. I see people get confused all the time about what they should work on or how they should prioritize practicing each jam. So, today we’ll look at the basic jamming hierarchy.   1. The Perfect Hand ...
Is Taping a Waste of Time?
Hey Cracksters, This week I’m going to answer a question I get asked a lot… "Pete, should I be using tape or gloves? Which one is actually better?" It’s a classic debate. Here is my honest opinion The Case for Crack Gloves Speed: You can take them on and off in seconds. No more 15-minute taping sessions at the base of the crag (and then having to keep the tape on all day) while you...

Newsletter Vault

Find all our past newsletters with crack climbing knowledge, insights and stories, all in one place
© 2026 Wide Boyz Ltd

Wide Boyz


DOWNLOAD THE FREE GUIDE

Take control of your finances with this free 4-step guide.