“My fist is too small”. Do This.

Hey Cracksters,

When the crack gets too big for single-handed jams—whether it’s a standard hand jam or a fist—this is where many people start to struggle. So, I’m going to give you 5 techniques you can use to make your hand size "bigger" than a standard fist jam.

5 Ways to Make Your Fist Bigger

Teacup Option 1:
When you make a fist jam, wrap your index finger over the tip of the thumb nail, so half the thumb is inside the fist. The part of the thumb between the knuckle and joint should push out into the crack wall and make your fist wider.

Teacup Option 2:
Make your standard fist jam (if you aren’t sure how to do this, my book has all the details). Place the thumb on the side of the fist with the tip of the thumb pointing towards the joint of the index finger. You will now have the full depth of your thumb as extra width in the jam.

Teacup Option 3:
Similar to above, but instead of having your thumb flat, push the tip of your thumb into the indentation that the index finger makes when you wrap your fingers (for the fist). This will push the joint of the thumb out into the crack wall. I'd recommend taping the thumb joint, as this can become painful if done alot.

Stacking Option 1:
If your teacup jams become useless, then stacking is your next option. Your first choice is to stack 2 hand jams together (a butterfly stack). The most common way is back-to-back with palms against the rock—you will need to cross your wrists for this.

Stacking Option 2:
If a butterfly stack becomes too baggy, use a hand-fist stack. There are many combinations, but a common one is using the left hand as a hand jam (thumb up) and then crossing your fist underneath your wrist in a palm-up position. Nestle the indentation on the side of the fist into the knuckles of your hand jam.

With both stacks, make sure you create equal tension through the hands.

Summary

When those fist jams start to get baggy, have a go at some of these techniques. Personally, I will always try and max my teacupping out before moving into stacking territory, so practicing those teacups is hugely important.

Happy jamming,

Pete