The Secret to Effortless Crack Climbing (It's not strength)

by Pete Whittaker

Dec 30, 2025

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Hello Cracksters

The Stick-Slip Point: Climbing Smarter, Not Harder

I was filming some YouTube videos with Emil Abrahamsson the other day, and we stumbled upon something really interesting. We were experimenting with weighted Paddle Jams*, and even though Emil is incredibly strong, he was powering out quickly once he got on the wall.

This made me realize he wasn't finding his "stick-slip point" – he was over-gripping.

So, what exactly is the stick-slip point?

It's the point where you apply the minimum amount of force necessary to keep your jam secure. It’s the sweet spot between slipping and sticking.

Why is finding the stick-slip point so important?

Efficiency: By understanding how to find it quickly, you avoid wasting precious energy. You operate just above the failing threshold, maximizing your hold without overexerting yourself.
Security: This principle leads to more secure and reliable jams, significantly reducing the risk of slipping or falling.
Progression: Mastering the stick-slip point is essential for progressing to more challenging crack climbs and advanced techniques.

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The Secret to Effortless Crack Climbing (It's not strength)

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