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Hey Cracksters,
I get told a lot by people that they really struggle with thin hand cracks. For sure, they are difficult, but I often see the same mistakes occurring when people try these jams.
Most people focus 100% of their effort on what to do with their hand once it’s in the crack. While that is important, actually 50% of your focus should be on what to do with your hand when it’s outside the crack and upon entering the crack.
1. The Strict "L-Shape"
We talk about the 'L' shape a lot, but most climbers only make a half-effort. Your thumb must point completely outward to create the thinnest possible profile. If you neglect this even slightly, you’re in for a losing battle from the start; your hand won't fit, and you'll waste energy trying to force it. Remember also with that L-shape not to be a rigid block—stay nice, soft, and supple.
2. Thumb-Down thin hand technique: Lead with the "Meat"
For a thumb-down thin hand, the #1 mistake is entering fingers-first. You must get your thumb pulp (the meaty part) in first with your fingers pointing away, then roll the fingers over the top. If you don't lead with the thumb, you'll never get the depth you need.
3. Thumb-Up (Paddle Jams): The "Chop"
Lead with your pinky at a 45-degree angle. Then, execute a decisive "chop" motion, over-rotating the hand past 90 degrees (then bring back to neutral) to ensure that the thumb pulp is deeply engaged.
The Golden Rule: Whether you are thumb-up or thumb-down, your success depends entirely on how that thumb pulp enters and engages.
Key Takeaways
- Consider your starting position and the way your hand enters the crack as important as what you do with your hand inside the crack.
- You MUST get as much of the thumb pulp into the crack as possible. Prioritise this before moving on.
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