3 Secret Weapons for Finger Cracks (You’re Missing One)

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Hello Cracksters

Feet in fingers cracks…desperate right?

But there are 3 techniques I use regularly with my feet in finger cracks that act as secret weapons. They are:

1. Toe Jam

2. Front-On Smearing

3. and the Frogged Position.

Here are the key takeaways for making your feet stick like glue in finger cracks

This first technique is the most common, and your go to for feet in finger cracks

1. Toe Jam:

Get your foot to its thinnest dimension (sole and top of the show facing either crack wall) – Twist mainly at the ankle to achieve this position.
Place your big toe in the crack first and use it as a pivot point to roll the lowest profile of your shoe (the outside edge near the pinkie toe) down and into the crack.
Add a small twist at the ankle to really snug it in (remember, the twist comes from the ankle, not necessarily the whole leg!).
Actively push (dig) your toe into the crack edge for extra friction (many people often forget this last point). Your feet need pressure through them to stick (it’s the same as normal climbing) “a weighted foot never slips”
I use this technique when the crack is a little steeper, or a little wider.

This next technique is a little overlooked, but works exceptionally well if the crack is in a corner (this could be an offset), or the edges of the crack are flared.

2. Front-On Smearing:

Position your foot in a face-on climbing stance.
Place your toe on the crack edge for precision.
As you stand up, drop your heel to apply pressure and maximize rubber contact against the crack edges.
I use this technique when there are lots of pinscars, pods, flares, or the crack is in a slight corner.

My final technique I rarely see used by climbers (and is probably the one you are missing..but great job if you are using this already). I have used this to great effect when the crack is very splitter and twisting the foot just makes the boot rubber roll out the crack.

3. Frogged Position:

Place your feet high under your bum (or as close as possible), in their thinnest dimension (so as I told you in the ‘Toe Jam’ Poin above)
Keep your knees pointing out to the side (yes, we're breaking normal crack rules for this one!).
Push into the crack walls with your feet (right foot pushes left, left foot pushes right!).
Don’t twist your feet, use the opposing outward pressure to keep them in place
Drop your bum close to your heels to create a super stable platform.
Make small shuffling movements with your feet up the crack, (don't cross them over the top of each other)

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3 Secret Weapons for Finger Cracks (You’re Missing One)

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