Don’t waste your winter gains

Hey Cracksters,

Ok so maybe I’m a little early with this one, but we had one nice day of weather and it reminded me that climbing outdoors does still exist!

So let's go through 5 key points which will help the transition from indoor winter training to outdoor spring goals really easy (by the way I understand some of you will be on the other side of the world, so will already be out and about in summer )

1. Give Yourself Time to "Recalibrate"

Climbing outside brings in different intricacies than climbing indoors. You aren't following coloured holds anymore, so you have to get your eye back into the details of the rock. The sequences can be less obvious and there are usually way more options outdoors, so get back into the mindset to think outside the box. Take some sessions to get used to the movement, rock type, and sequences.

This will vary depending on your "apprenticeship." For example, I started climbing when I was 7 and spent years outdoors, so I find the transition very easy, as it feels ingrained into me from being a child. However, Tom started climbing when he was 17, and I know he finds the transition takes him longer. This isn’t a bad thing, you just have to recognise it and be patient with yourself!

2. Visit the Project Early

If you have a project, go to it soon, but don’t get bogged down with it right away. You want to go early to get a feel for what you’re up against (or get a reminder if it’s an old one). However, linking back to the first point, you can’t expect to be a wizard on it if you just go straight to the limit without any other climbing.

Get some movement in on similar routes at an easier level first. ‘Similar’ being a key word in that sentence.

3. The Equipment Check

You’ve been going to the gym for months taking just your shoes, chalk bag, shorts and a t-shirt. Don’t get to the crag on the first day and realise you’ve forgotten something vital like your Grigri, headtorch, or crack gloves, (if you haven’t seen our new Master Jam Crack Gloves go check them out on our website).

Take 10 minutes the night before to lay everything out. Check your rack, ropes, and make sure your crack gloves haven't been buried somewhere. It sounds so simple, but I often make the simple mistake of forgetting something obvious and important

4. Plastic vs. Rock Technique

In the gym, you spend all winter "pulling" on holds that are designed to be grabbed. On cracks, you’ll be using many different techniques. Again, give yourself a bit of time to adjust and remind your body of the feeling of different hand and foot positions. It’s all there in your muscle memory; you just have to remind your body to "flick the switch" into a different mode.

5. The "First Go" Expectation

Even if you have done all the points above—lowered the level, taken your time, and prepped your gear—don’t judge yourself by your first lead.

As you will have probably noticed, it’s mostly about giving yourself time and being kind to yourself with your expectations. You can head out of winter training feeling really strong, but don’t worry, your strength and fitness isn’t going to disappear in a week just because you spent some time getting back into actual rock climbing again. Some time spent refamiliarizing yourself will be time well spent, as it enables you to put that strength you have built, to its full potential!

Right cracksters, I hope the weather and conditions are great for you!

Happy jamming