Mirror Wall - 4 ways crack gave success
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Hello Cracksters I recently returned from a trip to Greenland where I was successful on climbing a new route on Mirror Wall; A 1000m big wall in the arctic. Everyday I was always reminded how useful crack climbing is in the mountains. Through Wide Boyz and āthe crack climbing communityā we share a lot of content and information around single pitch and indoor crack climbing, however itās worth remembering that when you climb in the mountains, the art of jamming is a tool that helps keep you safe, just like your harness, rope and rack. Here are 4 reasons why crack climbing was so important on Mirror Wall, and why you should consider it being important to your climbing adventures in the mountains.
1. High density of crack 14 out of the 25 pitches we climbed on Mirror Wall consisted of crack climbing, with 7 of those being full blown cracks. Thats over 50% of the pitches containing jamming techniques, and over a whopping 25% being splitters. Can you imagine trying to move over that sort of terrain with no crack climbing experience?ā¦I canāt!
2. Squeeze chimneys and offwidths Some of the pitches high up on the wall were squeeze chimneys and offwidths. Squeeze chimneys canāt really be aid climbed (or if they can, it takes a very long time and lots of big clunky gear and trickery). Having the skills to climb squeeze and offwidth efficiently helps save a lot of time, and is safer than trying to aid climb this sort of terrain. You can also leave the monster cams and big bros at home and save the extra weight. (Big Bros or big cams on a 7 day approach, makes a big difference).
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3. Wet cracks Some of the cracks low down on the wall were wet. However, good jams are in some ways better than good jugs, which means that wet, mossy granite jams can still be climbed on. Having the confidence and ability to jam on easier terrain in suboptimal conditions, is time efficient and a useful skill. Myself and Sean managed to save ourselves a day by being comfortable in this terrain
4. The best pitch was a crack climb You get to free climb some of the best pitches! Having good crack climbing knowledge meant I was able to free climb and enjoy one of the best pitches of the route, which was a 7b+ (5.12c) headwall splitter! So if you love adventuring in the mountains, or on bigger climbs, donāt forget to practice your crack climbing, it will make a world of difference to your success and experience. |
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