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STOP Making These 3 Common Crack Climbing Mistakes

by Pete Whittaker
Dec 30, 2025
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Hello Cracksters

Here’s the plan:

  • I'll tell you the mistake.
  • I'll explain why it's a bit of a pain.
  • And of course, I'll give you the fix.

Ready? Let’s roll!

 

Mistake 1:

Air Jamming (aka Jamming in Mid-Air)

  • The Mistake: Basically, you’re setting up your jam before you've even got your hand (or foot, or whatever) in the crack. It’s like practicing your guitar solo before you’ve even plugged in.
  • Why It’s a Bit of a Pain: You end up with less contact between your skin and the rock, which means less friction and a less secure jam. Plus, you might not even get the right part of your body in the right spot in the first place.
  • The Fix: Think about your starting position and how you’re inserting your hand/foot. Keep that position solid until you’re actually in the crack. Then you can lock it in. Knowing what a good, solid jam feels like is super important here.
 

 

Mistake 2: “I Don’t Fit!” (The Classic Excuse)

  • The Mistake: Thinking your hand/foot is either too big or too small for a particular crack.
  • Why It’s a Bit of a Pain: Because it makes you give up before you’ve even tried properly
  • The Fix: There’s always a way, no matter your size (The only exception is if the crack is too thin for your finger tips). You just need to tweak your technique to fit the crack. What is a perfect hand jam for one person might be a thin hand jam or even a finger lock for someone else. Don’t get hung up on what the guidebook says or what your mate’s doing – figure out what works for your body and the crack in front of you.

 

Mistake 3: Skin? What Skin?

  • The Mistake: Not taping or gloving up before you start.
  • Why It’s a Bit of a Pain: Because you’ll end up with sore hands (or worse!), and your climbing session will be over before you know it. Less climbing = less practice.
  • The Fix: Tape or glove up before you even touch the rock. It sounds obvious, but you’d be surprised! If you’re feeling brave and want to go raw (no tape/gloves), stick to easier climbs well below your limit. Remember, you mostly get cuts and bruises when your technique is off (either because you don’t know the right way or you’re too tired to do it correctly). And remember, it’s not just your hands – think about your shoulders, legs, ankles, etc. But don't go overboard and tape everything up if it’s not needed. Cover the areas that get contact.

 

Want to learn more about crack climbing technique? join Global Crack School

 Join here

 
 

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