80% of crack strength comes from one thing
Hey Cracksters,
Tom and I have just got back from the Rack N Roll series, where we taught crack climbing at 3 different gyms to over 300 people! Today, I’ll answer a few of the most frequently asked questions from those sessions. Crack training? Managing fear? Jamming in a crack too big?
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Right on to the main topics
1. How do you train jamming without any cracks?
We get asked this a l...
800m solo on Kjerag: My biggest technique takeaway
My crack tip this week comes from my recent rope solo on Kjerag, where I managed a first free ascent of a route on its north wall—an 800m wall of fantastic rock, rivers, grass, and slime. Lovely! Climbing routes like this (especially when rope soloing) can often be quite demanding, and you have to climb in a specific way to navigate it all.
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As I was once again reminded on my trip up K...
Why Tom taped the crux cam to his chest?
Hey Cracksters,
In last week’s newsletter, we looked at racking up and some tips to make your life easier. However, that was purely a racking system for when you’re onsighting a climb.
Things can drastically change when you are redpointing—so much so that on one route, Tom actually taped the crux piece of gear directly to his chest! I’ll explain why when we go through the tips and tricks th...
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