The Crucial Element for Your Thin Hand Jams
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Hello Cracksters Thin cracks, they can feel impossible, right? But unlocking those narrow features is a total game-changer for your climbing. When I mastered thin hands and paddle hands, it gave me the opportunity to rest in places where that thin part was the crux. It seriously changed my crack climbing It all comes down to mastering just a couple of key hand shapes and movements.
1. Like we always say create that 'L' shape with your hand â thumb pointing outwards â for the thinnest profile. (we bang on about this L shape alot but so many people make a half effort with it and enter into the crack with the hand being too bulky).
2. For Thumb down thin hand it's crucial to get your thumb meat in first, fingers pointing away, and roll those fingers over the top of the thumb. (Many people go wrong as they enter finger first)
3. For thumbs-up ('paddle' jams), you'll want to lead with your little finger at a 45-degree angle, then execute a decisive 'chop' motion to rotate your hand past 90 degrees initially, to ensure as much as the thumb pulp enters the crack.
The real magic in both techniques, and something we can't stress enough, is getting that crucial thumb pulp working for you. Your starting hand position and how it enters the crack is crucial to getting it working properly for you. So reminderâŚThumb down, enter with thumb pulp first fingers pointing away. Thumb up, enter pinkie first, âchopâ the hand down and over rotate to engage the thumb pulp. Remember on thumb-down thin hand jams try to avoid over-rotating and pushing that vital thumb pulp out, and always aim to keep your forearm aligned with the crack. |
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