Log In
← Back to all posts

The final hand jam trick you missed

by pete whittaker
Dec 30, 2025
Connect

Hey Cracksters,

We’ve been banging on about the basic hand jam technique for ages

1. the 'L-shape'

2. Thumb towards the little finger

3. Brace with straight fingers across the crack

But in step 2 there's a subtle movement that adds that extra 10% of ‘umph’ making your hand jam wider and more solid…and like most hand movements in crack climbing, it’s all about the thumb.

 

Lets make your bomber hand jam even better…

Lets go through those steps

 

1. The L-Shape

If you haven’t heard us talk about the L-shaped starting position for a hand jam, then you obviously haven’t watched or read enough Wide Boyz content 

Before you put your hand into the crack, make an L-shape to make your hand as thin as possible before you insert it.

 

2. Thumb movement

For the next step of your hand jam we always say, push the tip of your thumb into the centre of your palm and towards your little finger. This expands and hardens the pulpy part below the thumb itself, and gives the hand jam some width to fill the cracks space

Now THE EXTRA TRICK: Instead of just leaving it in this position, push the tip of your thumb down towards that pulp (so now your thumb should have a bend in its joint). This little extra movement does 2 things:

1. Helps harden the thumb pulp even further

2. Ensures the tip of the thumb is out the way of the fingers for completing step 3. If you leave your thumb straight you won’t be able to do the ‘finger bar’ motion effectively.

 

3. Finger Bar

Finish the jam like you normally would, by pushing the tips of your 4 fingers across to the opposing crack wall.

 

Happy jamming,

 
 

Want to learn more about crack climbing technique? join Global Crack School

 Join here

 
 

Responses

Join the conversation
t("newsletters.loading")
Loading...
Why Your Hand Doesn’t Fit (+The Fix)
  Hey Cracksters, I get told a lot by people that they really struggle with thin hand cracks. For sure, they are difficult, but I often see the same mistakes occurring when people try these jams. Most people focus 100% of their effort on what to do with their hand once it’s in the crack. While that is important, actually 50% of your focus should be on what to do with your hand when it’s out...
The Grade Calculator: How to Use Grades to Route Read
  Hey Cracksters, I’ve just got back from a trip to Bohuslän in Sweden last week. If you’ve never been, the granite there is world-class! While climbing a few routes, I was reminded of a specific skill that is so important for onsighting: being able to do ‘on-route grade calculations.’  Most people think of a grade as just a number in a guidebook, but when you're onsighting, that number is actu...
5 Reasons you'll Climb Harder with a Good Partner
  Hey Cracksters, Although climbing can be a very social sport, the actual climbing itself is usually pretty individualized. It’s just you against the rock, the project, or the gym problem. However, I was recently reminded that having a solid partner and working as a real team is incredibly important. It can actually help you progress much quicker than if you’re just grinding away by yourse...

Newsletter Archive

Find all our past newsletters with crack climbing knowledge, insights and stories, all in one place
© 2026 Wide Boyz Ltd

Wide Boyz


DOWNLOAD THE FREE GUIDE

Take control of your finances with this free 4-step guide.