Turning a Desperate Move into a Victory Lap

So, how did Max manage this?

1. Always Look for Another Option

In climbing, we can often get tunnel-visioned into a specific sequence; I think we’ve all been victims of this, myself included. However, if you think just a little bit outside the box, magic and the unexpected can happen.

This was exactly what we saw with Max. After an attempt at the double dyno, he knew it wasn’t going to be high-percentage enough in the time allowed. He looked again and saw another option—a sequence including double hand jams and double heel-toe jams. He bypassed the dynamic movement entirely, controlled the sequence, and made the high point that secured him the win.

2. Never Pass a Chance to Learn

This win didn't happen by accident. Tom actually taught Max the basics of jamming years ago. At the time, Max was just a keen kid, but he didn't just learn it "for cracks"—he learned it because he was hungry for every bit of technical knowledge he could get.

That curiosity has served him well for years. It helped him win the CWIF via a jamming sequence a few years back, and it secured him the PCL title.

3. Spotting Jams Where Routesetters Haven't

I don’t believe the routesetters saw this as a possible sequence. However, as we know, you don’t need a pure splitter crack to be able to jam; any two surfaces that start to face each other can offer the possibility of a lock. Max saw this opportunity where others saw blank space and he took it.

The takeaway here is to stop just looking for "cracks" to jam. Start looking for possibilities. Be a jammer, not just a crack climber.

Your quick takeaways:

1.Keep thinking outside the box.

2. Learn to jam before you find yourself in the jamming situation (many people try to learn jamming when it comes to them, rather than approaching it first).

3.Be a jammer, not just a crack climber.

Happy jamming,

Pete