Why Your Ring Locks Feel "Nasty" (and How to Fix It)

The Secret to the Perfect Ring Lock: It’s All in the Thumb

Back to the tech. The biggest game-changer for ring locks is your thumb position. The key is to place the thumb vertically in the crack, keeping it close to the edge. Most people make the mistake of placing the thumb horizontally, with the tip pointing deep into the crack. If you do this, you physically cannot wrap your fingers over the top effectively.

The Pro Tip: Keep the tip of your thumb pointing straight up. As you wrap your fingers over, stay flexible in the thumb joint but don't let the thumb budge.

I often see climbers start with a great vertical thumb, but as soon as they wrap their fingers, the tip of the thumb slides into a horizontal position. That is exactly what you’re trying to avoid!

How to tell if you're doing it right:

1. Pressure: You should feel significant pressure through the thumb-pad of your thumb after the finger wrap.

2. Finger Position: If you can get the tip of your finger past your thumb nail, you’ll have a decent jam. If your finger tip rests on your thumb nail—or worse, doesn’t even reach—the tip of your thumb is too deep.

If you want to see exactly how this looks—including the specific pressure points and subtle positions—make sure to sign up for Global Crack School today. Our transparent crack demos show you exactly what’s happening.

Happy Jamming

Pete